摘 要：本文主要通过对历史上有相关记载的以及现当代含有纽襻的服饰的查看与研究，分析归纳出已有纽襻的各种存在形式，并从国内外设计师们对纽襻的设计与运用中总结出一定的规律，最终根据个人对纽襻的理解对其进行设计并运用到服装上。在古代纽襻常被用作连结左右衣片，是实用性的体现，通过对纽襻的研究，我发现古代服装中纽襻的形式十分简单，几乎都是直角纽襻，直到旗袍出现以后纽襻的形状才开始有了变化，继而产生了各式各样的图形。而纽襻的形状和材料以及结构线条排列的变化是人们不断追求美、创造美的求新求变心理的表现。到现在，纽襻的设计已经不只是局限于图案形状的设计了，设计师们更多的是通过对纽襻的大小，颜色，面料以及排列方式的合理把握，缀到服装上，结合服装整体的廓形，图案，线条使之交相呼应。本人通过对纽襻的研究与学习总结出了几种针对纽襻设计的手法：比如可以用夸张手法将纽襻放大或者缩小，通过一种反常规的形状大小设计第一时间来捕捉别人的眼球；或者也可以通过反复的手法将同样形状的纽襻重复地运用到服装上起到一个量化的效果，一般在此过程中，用形状简单的直角纽襻作为重复地单位比较容易出效果一点；另外也可以通过对比的手法，包括面料的对比和色彩的对比来突出纽襻的设计等。纽襻的作为中国传统服饰元素的重要组成部分，越来越体现出它的艺术价值和中国传统文化的博大精深。
关键词：纽襻；形式；研究；设计手法；中国传统服饰
Abstract：This article on the history of relevant records as well as contemporary clothing with New Zealand's view loop and research analysis concludes there have been various forms of New York loop, and domestic and international designers from the loop on the design and application of New York summarized in a certain law, the final loop of personal understanding of the New Zealand designed and applied to their clothing. New loops are often used in ancient link film about clothes is practical embodiment, loop through the New Zealand research, I found the ancient form of clothing in the New York loop is very simple, almost all of New Zealand loop right angle until the emergence of New York cheongsam loop only began to change shape, giving rise to a wide variety of graphics. The New York loop shape and arrangement of material and structural changes in the line is that people continue to pursue the United States, creating beautiful and innovative ideas of psychological performance. To the present, New Zealand loop design has not only limited to the shape of the design patterns, designers greater New York through the loop on the size, color, fabric and the arrangement of reasonable certainty, decorated to the clothing, the combination of clothing as a whole the profile shape, pattern, lines correspond to the turn. I loop through the Research and Study of New York summed up several New York-loop design for the way: for example, can use hyperbole in New Zealand to enlarge or reduce the loop, through an unconventional shape and size designed to capture the first time other people's eyes ; or can be repeated to the same shape the way the New York loop repeatedly applied to clothing, a quantitative effect on the play in general in this process, using a simple rectangular shape as the repeated unit of New Zealand and loops out the effect a little easier; Another approach can also be compared, including the fabric of the contrast and color contrast to highlight the design of New Zealand loop. New loop as an important element of traditional Chinese clothing part of more and more reflects its artistic value and profound traditional Chinese culture.
Key words: New loop; form; research; design practices; Chinese Traditional Costume
